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Mexican food has a reputation of being casual, maybe a bit too casual to gain
the respect of the Vancouver diner accustomed to the city's excellent
selection of restaurants. Lolita's, which bills itself as a "south of the
border cantina", is on a mission to change the way we think of the humble
burrito.
Set on one of the few quiet parts of Davie Street, just west of Jervis, this
tiny room has already had quite a bit of positive buzz. The somewhat limited
menu is split into three sections: starters (Bocaditos, which means "little
mouths" en espanol), soups and salads, and Platos Especiales which are
the main dishes. The drinks menu had interesting variations on the typical
tropical cocktail, in particular the Loca Limonade. Made with tequila, mango
liqueur, mango lemonade and muddled chili, this drink comes with a warning on
the menu: Muy Caliente. Yikes! We stuck to the traditional beer and wine, which
we were surprised to find a bit overlooked, with only 2 local beer selections
and 3 reds and 3 whites. However, the nonalcoholic drinks are as inventive as
the cocktails, with Jamaican spiced apple juice, ginger beer, and the house-made
mango lemonade. The drinks are on the expensive side, edging towards $11 for the
more elaborate cocktails.
The vegetarians in our group had no trouble finding selections from the menu;
in fact, our server was more than willing to answer questions and assured us
that dietary requests could usually be accommodated. As always, the restaurant
suggests giving them a call to ensure they can meet specific dietary needs. We
started with the guacamole classico ($8.50), which was simply delicious.
The chips were the best I have ever eaten, crisp and denser than your average
taco chip with a dusting of paprika. The guacamole was on the mild side, which
may disappoint some, and layered over refried beans and topped with diced
tomatoes and pickled red onion. The vegetarians selected the wild mushroom
quesadilla and the potato ragas tacos. The quesadilla ($8.50) was
unrecognizable, more like deep fried pockets than the flat triangles we are used
to seeing, but they tasted marvelous. The tacos seemed expensive at $14 but my
friend did not even finish the dish as she was stuffed. It was not a problem to
have the tacos served without mushrooms due to an allergy. The beef taquitos
($10.75 for 2), the only non-veggie dish we sampled, was not filled with
the ubiquitous ground beef, but pulled beef brisket. They were simply delicious,
surrounded by a drizzle of barbecue sauce that gave it a southwestern twang.
The room is quaint, tiny and friendly, bustling with good looking people and
truly patient staff members who are more than willing to make substitutions and
accommodate those with dietary restrictions. Lolita’s could become a
much-needed neighbourhood hotspot for that lonely section of Davie Street.
Unfortunately, they do not take reservations, so either show up early or really,
really late to avoid long lineups.
Reviewed by: Shannon Miller
Last reviewed: October 3, 2005
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